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Home Energy Magazine Online January/February 1998
Pressure Pans: New Uses and Old Fundamentals
by Jeffrey Siegel and Bruce Manclark
Pressure pans are often misused, and the
information they provide can mislead the inexperienced. Bruce Manclark
of Delta-T Incorporated (Eugene, Oregon) and Jeffrey Siegel, formerly of
Ecotope Incorporated (Seattle, Washington), investigate how mistakes are
made, and share their research into one strategy for more accurate pan
readings.
Duct leakage continues to be one of the biggest
home performance problems, so duct sealing retrofits are in steady demand.
Here at Ecotope and Delta-T, we've discovered a way for advanced duct sealers
to speed up their diagnostics. At the same time, we have found that too
many technicians are weak in the fundamentals of duct testing.
Contractors working on HVAC systems need to be
able to measure duct system leakage. Before sealing, they need to determine
whether the retrofit will be cost-effective. Getting correct information
is the key to quality control; getting it quickly is the key to cost-effectiveness.
Spend too much time, and the labor budget gets busted. Make the wrong decisions,
and systems that need sealing don't get sealed, while other ducts get unnecessary
work done.
Retrofitters have many tools for measuring leakage.
Two of the most common are pressure pans and duct pressurization devices.
Duct pressurization devices like the Duct Blaster can give precise measurements
of duct leakage. Pressure pans measure the ratio of leaks to the indoors
versus leaks to the outdoors. Pressure pan readings are difficult to interpret,
and the same number can reflect quite different leakage rates in different
houses. Currently, duct leakage standards with numerical targets for duct
tightness require duct pressurization testing.
Delta-T and Ecotope, funded by the Eugene Water
and Electric Board and Puget Sound Energy, are developing a new way to
use pressure pans, which may eventually speed up duct sealing (see "Not
Your Daddy's Duct Sealing Method," p. 44). Based on retrofits in the Northwest,
we have come up with an equation that uses pressure pan readings to provide
estimates of duct leakage to the exterior. In certain cases, we have used
quick pressure pan measurements to get data that are almost as reliable
as the numbers from Duct Blasters. However, the equation still needs development.
For now, what is most important is that technicians using pressure pans
receive adequate training in duct diagnostics.
Conventional "Wisdom"
Because pressure pans are quicker to set up, retrofitters
often try to use them instead of duct pressurization devices. This causes
problems. Conventional wisdom suggests that a system with an average pressure
pan reading of greater than 1 Pascal (Pa), or any individual register that
has a reading of 2 Pa or greater, is leaky enough to require sealing. This
rule may work well in some duct systems, but it can also lead to serious
errors.
The potential for trouble was demonstrated in
two houses sealed by a crew from Delta-T. In the first duct system, pressure
pan readings were all 1 Pa or less. Based on the pressure pan test, this
house seemed like a poor candidate for duct sealing. However, a duct pressurization
test revealed that there were 375 cubic feet of leakage per minute to the
outside with the ducts pressurized to 50 Pa (CFM50), an amount
that was unacceptably high to the sponsoring utility. This duct system
was sealed. A second home's duct system had pressure pan readings that
were all between 3 and 4 Pa. This seemed like an ideal candidate for duct
sealing. However, a duct pressurization test revealed only 125 CFM50
of leakage to the outdoors, too low to justify a duct sealing retrofit.
If the crew had based its decisions solely on pressure pan tests, they
would have made the wrong decision at both of these houses.
Similarly, a crew in our area recently sealed
the ducts in a house a utility (using pressure pans) had determined needed
sealing. The crew's initial numbers were considerably lower than those
reported by the utility. What had changed? Upon investigation, the crew
found that the homeowner had replaced a very dirty furnace air filter the
day before they arrived. The crew had also found and opened several dampers
in the system. These are just a few examples of the factors that can affect
pressure pan readings.
The duct pressurization test directly measures
how much air leaks out of the system at a given pressure. This can be mathematically
related to the equivalent leakage area in a system. The leakage area can
be correlated with energy loss, giving the retrofitter useful information.
The pressure pan test measures pressure in the duct, which is the result
of interactions among leaks to the indoors, leaks to the outdoors, the
physical details of those leaks, and the geometry of the duct system. For
example, registers close to other registers will have low pressure pan
readings, while dirty filters push all readings higher.
The Duct Pressurization Test
Duct pressurization tests are well documented; they
have been used for several years to measure duct leakage to the outdoors.
While there are several duct pressurization tests, this article uses the
term to denote the test procedure described below. This test is also called
an exterior duct leakage test, a blower door/duct tester test, a Duct Blaster
test, or a leakage to exterior test.
First, all supply and return registers are sealed,
usually with masking tape or garbage bags, and a blower door is installed.
A duct tester, which is like a miniature blower door, is attached and sealed
to the duct system, usually at the furnace cabinet. The air handler fan
is off for the entire test. A Pitot tube or similar pressure tap measures
the pressure of the duct system with respect to the house, and a tube is
set up to measure outside pressure with respect to the ducts. The blower
door pressurizes the house to about 50 Pa with respect to the outdoors.
With the air handler off, the duct tester blows air into the duct system
until there is no pressure difference between the house and the ducts.
With no pressure difference between the house and the ducts, all air going
through the duct tester is going to the outdoors through duct leaks. The
duct tester shows how many CFM it is blowing to maintain a pressure difference
of 50 Pa to the outdoors.
The test is often repeated with the house pressurized
to about 25 Pa. The data from such a two-point duct pressurization test
can be inserted into a formula to get a duct leakage curve. Such a curve
allows the retrofitters to estimate leakage at actual operating pressures,
which is more important than the leakage at 50 Pa. However, two-point tests
can be time consuming, requiring an experienced crew to spend as much as
two hours on testing, in addition to their sealing work.
The duct pressurization test results can be expressed
in CFM50 or they can be mathematically manipulated to estimate
leakage area. These numbers are directly comparable between different houses.
A duct system that has a leakage rate of 300 CFM50 is leakier
than a duct system that has a leakage rate of 200 CFM50. Every
contractor and utility duct sealing program has a different standard for
determining what is an acceptable leakage rate and what requires duct sealing.
For example, in the Pacific Northwest's smaller homes and manufactured
homes, leakage of more than 250 CFM50 usually means that a duct
retrofit is warranted.
Testing Techniques
Technicians in need of a faster estimate of duct
leakage (or working to help pinpoint duct leakage) often conduct a pressure
pan test (see "How to Pan for Pressure Gold"). The pressure
pan test requires a blower door and a pressure pan, which is a modified
cake pan with a gasket on the bottom and a pressure tap on top. A duct
tester need not be installed, and the registers do not have to be sealed.
The blower door is used to depressurize the house to -50 Pa with respect
to outdoors. Alternatively, if the ducts are all in one space, the house
can be depressurized to -50 Pa with respect to the space the ducts are
in. Then the technician covers one register at a time with the pressure
pan and records the pressure difference between the house and the ducts
at each register, with the air handler off.
With the house depressurized to -50 Pa with respect
to the outdoors, the duct system will have a pressure that ranges from
0 to 50 Pa with respect to the house. A duct system at 0 Pa is entirely
within the pressure envelope of the house and has no leaks to the outdoors.
A system approaching 50 Pa is essentially outside the pressure envelope,
meaning that it has catastrophic leakage to the outdoors. Three sources
of pressure can influence a pressure pan measurement.
-
Pressure from outdoors. Air in any hole connecting the inside of a duct
directly to the outdoors will have a driving force of 50 Pa.
-
Intermediate zone pressure. Some areas, such as attics and crawlspaces,
are not fully outdoors. These areas connect to the house through leaks,
and to the outdoors through vents or unintentional leaks. The pressure
difference between such zones and the house will be between 0 and 50 Pa,
depending on the size of the leaks and vents. If the ducts leak to an intermediate
zone, the zone's pressure with respect to the indoors will give air in
the duct some driving force.
-
Pressure from indoors. Openings connecting the duct system to the indoors
will lower pressure in the ducts. The registers are usually the biggest
source of indoor pressure, and unintentional leaks also contribute.
A pressure pan reading is the ratio of effective
leakage between the ducts and the indoors (including registers) to effective
leakage between the ducts and outdoors. Holes to the indoors, such as registers,
lower the numbers, while leaks to the outdoors raise the numbers. This
is evident to any technician who has ever conducted a pressure pan test
on two registers on opposing sides of the same wall. Because there is a
very large leak to the indoors (the other register) very close to the register
covered by the pressure pan, the pressure pan reading will be very low,
regardless of the leakiness of the duct system.
In the Eugene houses where pressure pans gave
the "wrong" result about the duct system tightness, the problem was that
the ratios were thrown off by unusual situations. In the house with low
pressure pan readings but high leakage, the problem was unusually high
internal leakage. In the house with high readings but relatively little
leakage, the problem was a single register that blew much of its air outdoors,
causing the duct pressure to be excessively influenced by outside pressure.
It takes about ten minutes to complete a pressure
pan test in an average sized house, once the blower door is installed.
This speed allows technicians to repeat the test several times during a
retrofit to evaluate the effectiveness of a particular sealing action,
such as sealing the leaks at register boots. Also, because using a pressure
pan does not require sealing registers or opening and sealing the furnace
cabinet, technicians do not have to worry about damaging wet duct seals
in these locations.
Can a Pan Be Enough?
The disadvantage of the pressure pan test is that
it is more art than science. As in the Eugene houses, pressure pan results
are often hard to interpret--the physical significance of the readings
is not always clear. It is even harder, if not impossible, to make meaningful
comparisons between homes based on pressure pan results. The one exception
is when homes have very similar duct geometry and installation, as is the
case with manufactured homes or identical homes in a subdivision.
The best way to interpret pressure pan results
correctly is to understand the physics behind the test. This, in turn,
requires a firm grounding in the duct pressurization test.
Still, we have found that a technician with adequate
background knowledge can get enough information from a properly executed
and analyzed pressure pan test to make valid field decisions on certain
homes. The standard pressure pan test assumes that the technician knows
the pressure in the space where the ducts are located and duct leakage
to the interior--numbers that normally come from doing a duct pressurization
test. However, some populations of homes have consistent relationships
among duct leakage to the exterior (or whatever space the ducts are in),
duct leakage to the interior, and house leakage to the crawlspace. Experienced
technicians can develop an intuitive sense of these relationships. Using
a pressure pan test and plenty of experience with a given housing stock,
some technicians can judge whether a house will be cost-effective to duct
seal. We have developed a new mathematical technique so that experienced
technicians can rely on something more than intuition.
If crews can make correct decisions using only
pressure pans, they will save time and increase cost effectiveness. To
see whether this is possible, we analyzed pressure pan data from 44 homes.
The data showed trends relating pressure pan numbers, duct leakiness, and
local construction styles. We analyzed these trends and developed the equation
below, which helps relate pressure pan results to leakage. This formula
allows similar homes to be compared on the basis of pressure pan tests.
The formula is intended to help a crew decide
whether to seal ducts in a home. Once the work is underway, continued use
of pressure pans and the formula may also help them decide whether they
have sealed enough leaks to consider the retrofit finished.
The formula is an empirical curve fit, rather
than a mathematically derived truth. It should be used with caution. It
assumes that the duct technician can make an accurate assumption about
unintentional leakage to the inside and it is intended to provide a general
result rather than a precise value.
Typical 4-inch x 10-inch or 4-inch x 11-inch
floor registers found in most Pacific Northwest homes have free areas (Ai)
of 24.1 square inches. The free area for any register can be found in the
manufacturer's register catalog. The formula is not particularly sensitive
to the area value, so assuming a free area of 25 square inches per register
usually works. While Ai is supposed to be the total interior
leakage to the indoors, adding all registers together results in an overestimate,
because one register is covered by the pressure pan. This overestimate
is intended to account for some of the unintentional interior leakage that
always seems to exist. If a crew has used Duct Blasters enough to have
a good idea of the interior leakage in the housing stock they're working
on, they can just add the area of this interior leakage to the sum of all
of the register free areas. This will make the formula more accurate.
The most important part of the equation is the
exponent, b. It summarizes the relationships among leakage to the
indoors, house leakage, and leakage to the outdoors. Therefore, the exponent
must be empirically derived for a given local housing stock. The exponent
has the most influence on whether or not the equation works. In order to
derive it, one needs duct pressurization test results (leakage to exterior
in CFM50) and the total pressure pan result for a sample of
similar houses. Using algebra, the exponent is then determined for each
house. All the exponents are then averaged, resulting in an exponent that
should predict valid results for similar homes.
The equation does a good job of predicting duct
leakage to the outdoors on a wide variety of Pacific Northwest homes. We
applied the formula to a sample of seventeen site-built and manufactured
homes. With duct pressurization test and pressure pan results for these
houses, we determined the average exponent to be 0.668. When this average
exponent was used with the pressure pan results for each home, the predicted
leakage was within 10% of the actual leakage in nine houses (53%) and within
20% of the actual leakage in 14 houses (82%). There were only two sites
where the predicted leakage varied by more than 25% from the actual leakage.
Both of these sites were homes where we knew that there were large amounts
of duct leakage to the indoors (due to panned floor joists or open duct
boots), which is the variable most likely to throw off the results. If
you suspect large amounts of leakage to the indoors, it is probably best
to conduct a duct pressurization test, unless you can tolerate a lot of
uncertainty in your measurements.
In addition, we went back and looked at data
from 13 older manufactured homes and 14 natural gas-heated site built homes.
The average exponent for these 27 homes was .712. Pressure pan measurements
were not the focus of the research at these homes and more measurement
error was evident. Compared to the first 17 homes, the agreement between
predicted leakage and measured leakage on the second sample was not quite
as good. Of the 27, 63% (17 homes) had predicted duct leakage within 20%
of the Duct Blaster measured value. In most of the other 10, there was
a relatively large amount of interior leakage, so we didn't expect the
result to be correct.
Regardless, the stated purpose of this equation
is to make decisions in the field, not to calculate duct leakage. Twenty-six
of the 44 homes in this study received retrofits because duct pressurization
tests showed they had over 250 CFM50 (in manufactured homes)
or over 300 CFM50 (in site-built homes). In all but three of
the 44, crews using the pressure pan results and the formula would have
made the correct decision on whether to seal the ducts. This shows that
the equation can help the duct sealer in the field.
The formula still has limitations. It cannot
be relied on in homes with a large amount of unintentional interior leakage.
Since it takes supernatural help to measure interior leakage without a
Duct Blaster, every duct sealing crew needs one of these, as well as a
pressure pan, on their equipment list. Duct technicians should become familiar
with the Duct Blaster test and should also learn the extent of interior
leakage in housing stock in their region. A Duct Blaster is also necessary
for determining the exponent on as many houses as possible. Remember--in
order to determine the exponent, both duct pressurization test results
and pressure pan results are needed. Once a crew is comfortable with their
locally derived exponent and has verified that it works well for their
housing stock, then they can rely more on pressure pan testing.
While it may be possible to save time in many
homes by substituting a pressure pan test for a duct leakage test, there
are no shortcuts when it comes to health and safety tests. These require
time and patience, and are worthwhile regardless of the cost.
We are continuing to test every possible retrofit
candidate with both duct pressurization tests and pressure pan tests. We
are developing and verifying exponents for a variety of housing stocks
in the Northwest while attempting to find a more satisfying physical basis
for the equation. Ultimately, we would like to develop a fast and easy
test that measures duct leakage at typical operating pressures.
How to Pan for Pressure Gold
A pressure pan is a convenient way to seal a register
and measure the resulting pressure between the duct system and the house.
To use one, follow these steps.
-
Make sure all interior doors are open and all exterior doors and windows
are closed. If the blower door is not depressurizing some part of the house
to -50 Pa, pressure pan readings will be wrong. The registers and grilles
in zones not depressurized to -50 Pa will act like leaks to the outdoors.
-
Remove all filters. A dirty filter can effectively block the supply side
from the return side, causing higher pressure pan readings. If you only
want to know the supply leakage, seal off the supply side from the return
side with cardboard and tape at the air handler.
-
Look out for dampers and other blockages. If there is a closed or nearly
closed damper in a duct branch, it will isolate that supply line from the
other registers, so the pressure pan reading at that register will be high
(like the single register in Figure 1, Example 1).
-
Make sure all the registers are wide open. If they are closed, their net
free area will decrease. This causes outside leaks to have disproportionate
effect, so the pressure pan readings will be higher than they should be.
-
Set all air handlers to stay off throughout the test.
-
Set up a blower door and depressurize the house to -50 Pa with respect
to the outdoors.
-
Measure the pressure to the zone containing the ductwork. For this example,
call that zone the crawlspace. If there is no pressure difference between
the crawlspace and the house, ducts in the crawlspace will effectively
be leaking to the indoors. Thus all pressure pans will read zero, regardless
of their leakiness. If the crawlspace is between indoor and outdoor pressure,
there are two possible ways of using the pressure pan. One is to estimate
what the pressure pan readings would be if the crawlspace were at 50 Pa
with respect to the house. For example, if it is at 25 Pa with respect
to the house, pressure pan readings should be doubled to show what the
duct pressures would be if the crawlspace were outdoors. Alternatively,
if the ducts are all in one cavity, you can actually depressurize the house
to -50 Pa with respect to the space the ducts run through; this will make
calculations easier.
-
If a pressure pan is not available or doesn't fit on a register, you can
measure the pressure at a register by sealing the register with tape and
measuring the pressure difference across the tape with a Pitot tube.
-
Toe kicks--registers underneath cabinets in kitchens and bathrooms--present
a special problem. It is hard enough to fit a pressure pan against one
of these long, awkwardly placed registers. And any pan number that you
manage to get actually shows the pressure difference between the room and
the space below the cabinet, not the duct. This pressure can vary radically
depending on construction details. It is not clear what a technician can
infer from toe kick pressure pan results. If possible, seal the duct off
at the boot-to-duct connection with tape, foam, or a pillow, thereby removing
that duct from the system. Put a pressure tap hose into the end of the
duct and treat the resulting number like a pressure pan result.
-
Most return grilles are larger than a pressure pan. To use the pressure
pan, tape off part of the grille, leaving an untaped area small enough
that the pan will cover it. This affects all the other pan readings, so
do it before you begin testing. On a standard louvered return register,
tape it all except a 10-inch x 5-inch opening to get a net free area equal
to an average supply register. Other sizes will work, but this size may
be easier for crews to work with, because they are used to it.
-
If there are big gaps between the boot and the floor, this will affect
the pressure pans. Tape over those gaps and use a pressure pan, or block
the entire boot with tape or a pillow and measure pressure with a Pitot
tube in the duct. If the gap is large, our crew typically seals it permanently
and then retests that register.
-
Do pre- and post retrofit duct tests under the same conditions. If the
registers were in the boots for the preretrofit test and were not placed
back in for the postretrofit test (to let wet sealing mastic dry, for example),
the postretrofit test results would be artificially low--the lack of grills
increases the register free area from 24 square inches to 40 square inches
for typical floor registers. Similarly, if the air handler and/or the duct
work is located in the garage, make sure any garage doors to the outdoors
are in the same position for all tests.
|
In a perfect duct system with no leaks to the
outdoors or to any intermediate zone, as in Example 1, a pressure pan over
any register will read 0 Pa. The air pressure in the ducts is equal to
that in the house. This pressure is not affected by the number of registers.
Likewise, a simple duct system with only one register and a leak directly
to the outdoors (as in Example 2) would have a pressure pan reading of
50 Pa. The only source of pressure is the outdoors. The register is not
open to the indoors because it is sealed by the pressure pan during the
test. Theoretically, whether the leak to the outside is 20 square inches
or 0.01 square inches, the reading will still be 50 Pa--the ducts are outdoors.
The pressure pan, as part of the boundary between outdoors and indoors,
shows outdoor pressure with respect to the indoors.
Example 3 shows a slightly more complicated system
with two registers. Each has an area of 40 square inches. The only other
hole is a 40 square-inch hole to the outside. The pressure pan reading
at each register is about 25 Pa, because the pressure pan is equally influenced
by the pressure difference between the ducts and the outdoors (50 Pa) and
the pressure difference between the house and the duct system (0 Pa). With
the ratio of indoor to outdoor leakage at about one to one, the pressure
pan reads midway between the indoor and outdoor pressures.
Moving toward increasingly complex--and realistic--duct
systems, one finds a variety of holes to various zones at various pressures.
The pressures are further complicated by fluid dynamics: pressures are
influenced by the relative hole sizes between zones, the pressures in those
zones, the physical location of the holes, the duct geometry, and the resulting
air flow at the point in the duct system where the technician puts the
pressure pan. These factors greatly complicate a mathematically rigorous
physical interpretation of pressure pan results, particularly for anything
other than a very simple and idealized house. The average house is decidedly
neither simple nor idealized. |
Bruce Manclark is the co-owner of Delta-T Incorporated
in Eugene, Oregon. Jeffrey Siegel is a graduate student research associate
at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory.
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