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Home Energy Magazine Online September/October 1997
TRENDS
Instant Insulation Estimates
Do-it-yourself energy retrofitters often have to
figure out whether their improvements will be cost-effective. For example,
they don't want to end up spending more on insulation than the insulation
will save in energy costs. A professional auditor determines life cycle
cost-effectiveness by considering the type of building, the heating system,
the expected purchase and installation costs of the insulation, the cost
of fuel, and projected changes in the cost of fuel (see "Consumer
Guide to Insulation," HE Jan/Feb '92, p. 29). Most homeowners don't
want to bother with all of this, so they just guess at what insulation
level to use.
To help consumers make more informed insulation
choices, several U.S. agencies have been busily putting together convenient
insulation guides. The Energy Star Guide to Insulation, which will soon
be distributed by insulation dealers, is a one-page document jointly prepared
by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the Department of Energy
(DOE). The document provides consumers with basic facts about home insulation
without a great deal of technical detail. It helps them to analyze their
insulation needs based on location, fuel, and building type.
The Oak Ridge National Laboratory has also developed
its own user-friendly insulation guide. This guide includes a method for
prescribing insulation levels based on zip code (as a climate reference),
wall assembly material, current insulation levels, heating system, and
whether the insulation is in a retrofit or new construction. The guide
is available as a factsheet and can also be accessed at the Oak Ridge Web
site. It updates the 1988 Insulation Factsheet from the DOE.
Terese Stovall, the engineer with the Insulation
Materials Group at Oak Ridge who was responsible for developing the new
guide, says it was time to redo the factsheet. The old factsheet "still
talked about the Arab oil embargo. It didn't cover many construction [techniques]
that have become common, including structural insulated panels, metal framing,
insulated concrete forms, and optimum value-engineered framing." Stovall
reports that many subtleties have been added. "The new factsheet considers
walls as an assembly, including the cavity and sheathing. The old factsheet
just dealt with the cavity." The goal of the new guide is to show what
insulation levels will be cost-effective for each type of home in each
location.
Stovall tried to make the new guide sensitive
to regional differences, including climate, fuel cost, and contractor prices.
To account for local differences in climate, the guide provides different
recommendations for different zip codes. To account for differences in
installation cost, Stovall used the average installation cost for the country--based
on national surveys. She then adjusted these costs for each state, increasing
or decreasing local costs based on "city factors" from RS Means--an industry
standard construction estimating service. RS Means provided the city factors
to account for different overhead and labor costs for the construction
industry in different cities. Thus a state where the cities have high labor
costs will have a higher estimated installation cost, which in turn lets
the guide recommend a lower level of insulation. While this method of determining
local costs is imperfect, it is better than the previous methods, which
depended on a 1986 survey by the National Association of Home Builders.
To use the guide, readers first determine what
insulation zone they are in, using the first three digits of their zip
codes. New York City zip codes, for example, start with 100. On the zone
chart, the number "100" is listed as zone 9. Readers next turn to a chart
of heating systems. There are two tables, one for new homes and one for
retrofits. These tables place readers in an insulation group. In zone 9,
a new home with electric baseboard heat falls into insulation group N7.
In the same zone, an existing home heated by oil is in group E5. Generalizing
many climates and home styles into insulation zones and groups could cause
flaws in the analysis, so a more individualized analysis is available on
the associated Web site.
The next table recommends total R-values based
on insulation group. R-values provided are in industry standard increments,
such as R-19, R-22, and R-30. According to the guide, a home in group E5
should have an R-38 attic, R-25 floor over unconditioned space, R-11 wall
cavity, R-19 unventilated crawlspace, R-11 basement wall, R-10 insulated
sheathing on uninsulated walls (if the house siding is already being replaced),
and R-5 sheathing atop insulated walls.
New homes are further divided up. Each of the
seven insulation groups is given cost-effective insulation levels for attics,
floors, cathedral ceilings (including the cost of increased framing thickness),
wall sheathing, wall cavities, band joists, crawlspace walls, slab edges,
basement exteriors, and basement interiors. The wall, attic, and floor
recommendations are broken up according to whether the framing is traditional
wood framing, optimum-value engineered wood framing, metal framing, or
masonry. The guide continues with an explanation of insulation, air leakage,
and the assumptions behind the tables.
Retrofitters interested in an even more detailed
analysis can use the associated Web site at http://www.cad.ornl.gov/kch/zip.html
(no longer active). There the geographic database is slightly more sophisticated,
providing an individual analysis for each zip code and fuel type. However,
Stovall says, "98% of the attic insulation levels will be the same" on
the Web as on paper. "Some crawlspace or wall insulation levels might be
slightly different."
The factsheet is available from the Energy Efficiency
and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse. Tel: (800) DOE-EREC.
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