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Home Energy Magazine Online March/April 1997
LETTERS
Heat Pump Comparison Flawed?
In the article on ground source heat pumps ("Do
You Dig Ground Source Heat Pumps?" Nov/Dec '96, p. 33), Jeff Stein's
comparison of efficiency studies on p. 37 states that 28 homes in Montana
with heat pumps were found to use about the same heating energy as 40 similarly
built homes with electric-resistance heat. That's incorrect. The homes
did not have similar construction. The 40 Residential Standards Demonstration
Project (RSDP) homes with electric-resistance heat, built in 1984, were
superinsulated. Their average UA (U-value multiplied by the combined area
of the floor, ceiling, and walls) was about 199, thanks to walls averaging
R-38 and R-60+ ceilings. The heat pump homes, built in 1993-94, meet super
Good Cents standards--R-26 walls, R-49 ceilings, R-38 crawlspace, R-21
walls below grade, R-10 under slab--but are not superinsulated. They have
an average UA of about 339.
Another difference is that the electric baseboard
heat in RSDP homes is zoned, while the heat pumps are ducted to the whole
house.
The comparison, then, is between high-tech heating
systems (the heat pumps) in moderate shells and low-tech (electric-resistance)
heating systems in high-tech shells.
Jim Maunder
Missoula Electric
Missoula, MT
Author Jeff Stein responds: Mr. Maunder's
point is well taken. Drawing conclusions about heating system efficiency
by comparing actual heating or whole-house energy consumption can be like
comparing apples and oranges, if the houses have unaccounted-for differences
in insulation levels, occupancy behavior, etc. But it is also the best
way we know of getting an accurate picture of field performance and actual
savings. Thus we strive to find similar controls (retrofits are usually
the best) and to normalize for as many differences as possible. We have
recalculated the Montana heat pump and control homes using total UA, rather
than floor area, and found that the heat pump homes do indeed save about
13% of total energy consumption. This is still considerably less than the
35% savings predicted by the COP measurements made at the heat pump homes.
It should be noted that Mr. Maunder is one
of the few people in the country bothering to carefully monitor the performance
of homes that he helped sponsor. His comments about the heat pump homes
are especially important because, about ten years ago, he was involved
in building the homes that became the controls in our comparison.
Give Heat Pumps Their Day in the Sun
There are several issues and omissions in "Do
You Dig Ground Source Heat Pumps?" that we at the Energy Crafted Home
program do not agree with. Of particular note, the authors do not discuss
one of the most compelling advantages of geothermal heat pump systems:
reduced air pollution. The EPA, in their report "Space Conditioning: The
Next Frontier," found that emerging geothermal heat pump systems typically
produce the lowest CO2 and NOx emissions of any conventional
space conditioning system. Geothermal systems harness a natural and renewable
energy resource--solar energy--and as such are an environmentally responsible
step toward reducing our country's reliance on nonrenewable fuels and achieving
President Clinton's Global Climate Challenge.
As the authors contend, it is clear that if a
geothermal (or fossil fuel) system is poorly installed, it will not perform
up to design specifications. Our new construction energy conservation program,
the Energy Crafted Home program, requires all HVAC contractors installing
geothermal systems to perform an approved Air Conditioning Contractors
Association Manual J equipment sizing calculation and Manual
D duct system layout and sizing calculation. We have found that, when
properly designed and installed, geothermal heat pump systems reduce customers'
fuel costs, build positive load for the utility, and help preserve the
environment by reducing toxic and greenhouse gas emissions.
John Livermore
Energy Crafted Home Program
Northeast Utilities
West Springfield, MA
Editor's reply: Ground source heat pumps are
relatively energy efficient, but their real-world performance is still
being studied. The EPA report is based on simulations when heat pumps perform
to specifications and ducts don't leak. Actual performance is considerably
below expectations in many cases, so the environmental benefits are less
certain. A utility program, such as Energy Crafted Home, with good contractor
training--and inspection--is the best way to achieve maximum environmental
benefits from ground source heat pumps.
A ground source heat pump "harnesses ... solar
energy" by using electricity most often derived from nonrenewable resources.
Unless that electricity is being made from photovoltaics, implying that
they use "solar energy" is misleading and reduces the credibility of ground
source heat pump promoters.
Zebra Moisture Mystery
I have been called upon to help a customer deal
with a moisture problem. The outside of this house sweats in the morning,
year-round. It only sweats between the studs, and not underneath the porch
overhangs, so it looks like zebra stripes. We have considered thermal bridging,
but cannot understand why it would sweat in this manner throughout all
seasons. Although our climate is very humid, our summer temperatures in
the early mornings are rarely lower than the indoor design temperature.
What explains the striping over the studs in
summers? Could the thermal mass of the wall be storing heat overnight and
preventing the surface of the exterior siding from reaching the dew point
temperature? The home is about three years old and is well insulated and
sealed for our climate. The wall construction is (from interior out) painted
gypsum board, stud framed wall construction, R-13 fiberglass insulation
with kraft facing, exterior 0.5-inch polyisocyanurate with radiant barrier
on both sides and the seams taped, and 0.5-inch exterior Louisiana Pacific
(LP) lap siding. All electrical and plumbing penetrations were foamed,
and the soleplate in the wall was caulked. A 6-mil polyethylene vapor barrier
is also installed in the crawlspace. Relative humidity levels inside, in
the attic, and in the crawlspace were within a few points of 74%.
There are problems with moisture in this type
of LP siding, but the homeowner wishes to find out about the condensation
before replacing the siding or covering it with vinyl.
Greg Mullis
Tri-County Electric Membership Corporation
Gray, GA
Editor's reply: Maybe the siding is condensing
water out of the air surrounding the house. The siding that can "see" the
night sky is cooled (by radiation to the cold sky) to a temperature below
that of the surrounding air, which then drops below the dew point and condenses
water onto the siding. What matters isn't the outside air temperature,
but the temperature of the siding surface, which is being cooled by radiation
to the night sky to a temperature lower than the outside air.
Since the porch-sheltered siding can't see
the sky, it doesn't have this problem; this also explains why it happens
year-round in the early morning, when relative humidity is typically at
a maximum. If the insulation were not as good as it is, heat leaking out
from inside would warm the siding enough to prevent this effect; in fact,
that is what is happening at the studs. A test for the theory: shield more
of the siding from the night sky (perhaps with a tarp attached to the roof
edge and held out like an awning). If the condensation goes away under
the cover, then this is probably the cause.
I'm not sure what to suggest as a solution,
but if my theory is correct, no harm is being done. It's just dew forming
on the outside of the wall. If the siding is going to be replaced, enough
extra rigid foam could be installed over the existing insulation (under
the new siding) to mask the thermal bridging of the studs, making for a
more uniform outside surface temperature. Vinyl siding alone might provide
enough extra insulation to get the dew to form over the whole surface.
Another option is to plant trees that will shield the walls from the night
sky.
Reflections on
White Roofs
I am replacing the gray shingle roof on a two-story
split-level single-family house with full attic. I'm in Long Island, New
York. I am trying to decide between a light- and a dark-colored roof, and
one consideration will be the effect on the summer heat loading. If the
light roofing absorbs about 70% of the incident visible solar spectrum
(as measured with my camera's light meter), and the darker shingles absorb
90%, how much difference in attic and second story temperature can this
make during the height of summer? Could it make the difference between
having to run an air conditioner or not?
Peter Gollon
Huntington, NY
Editor's reply: While different colors might
absorb more or less of the visible light hitting your roof, they may not
make much difference in how much solar energy the roof absorbs. As we reported
in "White Roofs for Cool Homes" (Nov/Dec
'96, p. 28), even the best white asphalt shingles still only reflect 35%
of solar energy. They do help--black shingles rise 90°F over ambient
air, while white ones rise only 60°F (under the test conditions we
reported). But to really make a difference, get a coating engineered to
keep the house cool. These coatings can reflect as much as 80% of solar
energy and stay only 15°F hotter than ambient air on hot days.
If this sort of coating is too expensive,
you might consider a radiant barrier, which can reflect energy that would
otherwise heat up the second-story ceiling and ducts running through the
attic.
Insulating Floor Trusses
My home was built using floor trusses, so the framing
members against the floor are laid flat, unlike conventional floor joists.
What is the recommended technique of insulating? When the insulation is
"suspended" flush with the lower edge of the trusses, it is impossible
to seal off drafts.
John Webb
Weaverville, NC
Editor's reply: We understand what you mean
about drafts--the trusses allow air flow through them. Even with conventional
joists, air can flow along them, with the same result, though not as severe.
The best way to insulate floors, with the possible exception of spray-on
insulations, is to completely fill the joist (or truss) cavities with insulation,
leaving no space between the insulation and the subfloor. (There are fire
safety reasons for leaving no gap as well; see "Does
Floor Insulation Performance Meet Expectations?" Mar/Apr '94, p. 8.)
This usually means using more insulation than
simple R-value cost-effectiveness analysis recommends, but you're much
more likely to get effective insulation. A less effective alternative is
to use spring ("lightning") rods, sometimes called tiger teeth, but they
have been known to fall out over time.
Ceilings and Roofs, Reprise
Regarding "Only
Soggy Ceilings Sag" ("Letters," Nov/Dec '96, p. 4). The strapping or
furring out of ceilings with 1 x 3s is peculiar to New England. For years
I have spaced this furring 24 inches on center and blown in 15 to 16 inches
of cellulose. No ceiling has ever sagged.
Paul Fisette's two articles ("Out
Out, Dammed Ice" and "Roofing and Siding
Get an Energy Fix," Nov/Dec '96, p. 25, p. 33) are excellent, as usual.
However, I'm certain that given where Paul lives, he has seen that the
wide aluminum strips on the eaves, with or without embedded heat wires,
don't help. If, after the winters of 1993-1996, anyone still believes that
most attic ventilation devices, including some ridge vents, work, or that
the code-required ratios provide adequate attic ventilation, they are indeed
blind.
The sidebar on roof venting doesn't deal with
the fact that many manufacturers of ridge vents claim that internal baffles
or no baffles on ridge vents work as well as external baffles. (I fully
concur with Paul's position that external baffles are best.)
Gene Leger
New Ipswich, NH
Pilot Lights Use
More Energy
I read with great interest the article on gas fireplace
pilot lights in the Jan/Feb '97 issue ("Fireplace
Pilots Take Gas Use Sky High," p. 6). Those Canadians do great work!
However, the article understates therms by a factor of ten. The annual
energy use of a typical pilot light is 73 therms, not 7.3 therms as stated;
the 14 homes with significant fireplace use but a less than continuous
pilot used 67, not 6.7 therms per year, and the homes with continuous pilot
lights and insignificant fireplace use consume 70 therms, not 7.
I live with my family in a 3,300 square foot
house. Our annual space heating consumption in a very energy conserving
house is the equivalent of 270 therms. Were we to install a gas fireplace,
the annual pilot light gas use would increase our space heating by 27%.
Ouch!
Could I make the following modest proposal? Let's
ban all pilot lights. Period.
Rob Dumont
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Editor's reply: Thank you for your vigilance.
We regret the error.
Errata
In "Budgets, Deregulation, and Big Scissors"
(Jan/Feb '97, p.7), we misidentified Daniel William Fessler. He was
with the California Public Utilities Commission, not the California Energy
Commission.
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